I've visited my relatives in Sparta over the years and it seems to me that their material conditions since the early 1960s have profoundly improved. We visited there in 1992 and was surprised to see that my mom's cousin had hired Russians to pick the orange crop on fields that he rented from some landlord. The down side to this, is that the place has become more and more commercialized as it becomes integrated with the rest of Euorpe (my cousins kids wear Nike/Jordan stuff etc.).
It pains the hell out of me to watch this aboslute fucking nightmare unwind in Kosovo. I've driven that road through Tito-Veles to Skope and it is so damn beautiful as you head higher and higher from the coastal plain of Greece up through Macedonia on up to Belgrade. Maybe those folks believed as Zappa used to say "it can't happen here," but now this shit has poisoned the next few generations - what a fucking shame!!!!
Jason