Take a look around: New York is fat as a house, and enjoying it.
The citys new layer of fat is not the apologetic fat of yore; its a fat that pronounces itself. Its the fuck-you fat of James Gandolfini and Rosie ODonnell and Alec Baldwin; the perky, focused fat of Hairspray sensation Marissa Jaret Winokur and gyrating television teen Kelly Osbourne; the born-again baby fat of pudgy pitcher David Wells; the horny bombshell fat of model Sophie Dahl and rock star Pink.
Call it survivor fat for impending God-knows-what, call it carpe diem, call it simple self-indulgence, but in any event, call the pizza parlor! ...
Gourmet magazine editor in chief and former New York Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl has noticed that New Yorkers are eating more heartily. "Its about time!" she said. "I certainly think that in the wake of Sept. 11 people started feeling vulnerable and as if they should enjoy themselves as much as possible. Life started feeling very precious. So they started giving themselves permission and silencing that little voice that says, Dont eat that. People started living their lives with more gusto."
<http://www.observer.com/pages/frontpage5.asp>
Carl LBO blubber beat correspondent
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