Yummy lard

Wojtek Sokolowski sokol at jhu.edu
Mon Jan 13 08:49:58 PST 2003


Catherine:
> But I'm not sure about the train comment. In Poland on the

The train comment was about Russia. I visited Leningrad last March. Before that visit, I expected a decent public transportation system and lousy food, because this was what I rememebered from my previous visit (during the 1970s). However, it turned out to be the other way around. The food was quite good and that counts for both fast food joints where you can have a dinner for about $1.50 and a fancy restaurant where we shelled about $20 per person (an astronomical amount for Russia).

As far as trains are concerned - it is another story. We took a commuter train from the Vitebsky Terminal, which was in utter disrepair. There as a dusted statue of Lenin in the hall (one of a few remaining in this city) with a few red roses someone put on the pedestal. It was a pretty sad scene, and for a strange reason reminded me of the biblical story of the crowds condemning Jesus and rooting for Barabas. The electric train was also pretty dilapidated, broken windows etc.

The same can be said abut public transportation system. Trolleys and trams run rather frequently but since they seldom have the right of way, they are stuck in traffic with cars that swarm this city. Cars are a status symbol of the new 'priviligentsia' and car drivers are the most obnoxious crowd I've seen for a long time, they cut off trams and trolleys and cayse long delays. I saw a frustrated tram driver at one point started moving against a car driving against the traffic in its path. The asshole driver had to swerve to avoid being pushed aside by the fifty or so ton tram. I wish he had been, it would have taught him a lesson.

The subway was the best way to move around the city (especially over longer distances), but information about trains and routes was virtually non-existent.

My experience from Poland a Czech republic are somewhat better, especially around tourist routes. "IC" trains (which stands for Inter City) are of decent quality but not as fast as those in the West. Local and commuter trains are another story - they can be as bad as those I saw in Russia, and the crowd that rides tham can be obnoxious or even dangerous. What is more, taking trains can be a tricky business. The most direct route is not necessarily the best. Thus, you do not take a non-stop train from Krakow to Berlin (although such trains exist), because it takes up to 12 hrs. Instead you take an IC to Warsaw (2.5 hrs) and then another IC to Berlin (6hrs), which also has a much better on board service. See http://www.bahn.de/pv/uebersicht/die_bahn_international_guests.shtml which provides Europe-wide schedules.

Wojtek



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