Durham may not have a single colliery left, but the spirit of its industrial past lives on as former mining communities, trade unionists and past and present Labour MPs prepare for for the 122nd Durham Miners' Gala.
Widespread speculation that backbench Labour rebel John McDonnell, chairman of the leftwing Campaign Group, may use this traditional event to announce his intention to run against Gordon Brown as successor to Tony Blair, has added to the buzz.
Neither Mr Blair nor the leader in waiting are expected to attend tomorrow's event. If the rumours turn out to be true, they will miss a key announcement that many expect to hear from Mr McDonnell, MP for Hayes and Harlington, which would thwart any coronation ambitions Mr Brown may be harbouring.
A spokesman from John McDonnell's office, however, said that Mr McDonnell was "still consulting and thinking over" any decision to stand for the leadership, but said that pressure for him to stand was mounting.
In "virtually every meeting John chairs, someone calls out 'stand as leader'. Several organisations have also approached John to stand", he said.
The gala is a key date on the old Labour calendar. First held in 1871, the gala used to celebrate the activities of 116 Durham collieries.
Over the years, however, the event evolved into a wider celebration of unionism and "old Labour", playing host to such leftwing stalwarts such as Tony Benn and Dennis Skinner. Today it remains one of the largest union events in the UK.
Among the pageantry and the music of the old colliery bands, the politics of the old left live on.
Mr Benn, who has himself been commemorated on a parade banner, will be attending the gala for the 44th time tomorrow.
For him, the event is a celebration of Britain's history, reminding us how the country was "built on coal", showing that "they can close down the pits, but can never abolish the miners".
While the mines have closed, the gala has expanded, he says - first opening up to miners from across the country, then to all trade unions.
It remains a "very important" occasion to the movement, with some 50,000 attendees last year.
"It reminds us of issues that are always with us," he says, referring not only to union struggles but also the current energy crisis. For Mr Benn, the coal pits would need to be reopened if Britain was to be independent of oil producers.
According to blog reports, Labour chair Hazel Blears will be one of the many MPs to join the throng tomorrow.
The day will involve the ritual march through the centre of the city with, naturally, several brass bands and numerous colourful banners celebrating mining communities and heroes, such as miners' poet Jock Purdon, who performed regularly during the mining strikes of the 1980s.
The gala has been attended by every Labour leader since the party's inception, except for Tony Blair, who was criticised in 2002 for failing to even respond to his invitation.
Former leader Michael Foot branded Blair's failure to attend the event a "damn shame", as Labour leaders would stand on the balcony of the County Hotel to pay their respects to those who perished in mining catastrophes.
Leaders would not be guaranteed an easy ride, with widespread heckling a gala tradition - Jim Callaghan was roundly condemned for his incentive scheme and "social contract" when he attended.
The year after the end of the miners' strike saw hundreds in the crowd simply turn their back on Neil Kinnock.
Other speakers expected tomorrow include Dave Prentis, general secretary of Unison, and Amicus boss Derek Simpson, both of whom have warned Mr Brown not to take their support for granted if he ploughs on with the reform agenda being pushed by Tony Blair. Tomorrow, an alternative may step forward. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <../attachments/20060708/27ed05c7/attachment.htm>